Tretinoin is a powerhouse ingredient beloved by skincare aficionados of all stripes — its pore-clearing, collagen-boosting benefits make it an option for both anti-acne and anti-aging skincare. Of course, with great power comes great responsibility — so before you run out to get a prescription, here’s what you need to know about what tretinoin does for the skin.

What’s tretinoin?
Tretinoin is a retinoid (aka a derivative of vitamin A) that impacts the way your skin generates new cells. Tretinoin is known to help unclog pores while speeding up the cell turnover process — meaning it clears away dull, dead skin cells more quickly. So it may be an option if your skin goals include a bright and smooth complexion free of blemishes.

The ingredient is a more potent cousin of over-the-counter retinol, and a key difference between tretinoin and retinol is that you need a prescription to use tretinoin. To get tretinoin, you must first consult with a medical professional who will evaluate your skin concerns. If tretinoin is right for you, you’ll get a prescription for a tretinoin cream or gel to be applied nightly after cleansing (or as otherwise directed by your dermatology provider).

What’s skin purging?
When you first start on tretinoin, you might experience something called “purging.” Your cell turnover rate increases, meaning the way your skin regenerates speeds up. And as this process starts clearing out your pores, you might see some new pimples.

Believe it or not, this is actually a sign that the tretinoin is working! “Purging” is a (semi-scary) term for temporary breakouts, and though we know that breakouts are never fun, sticking with it for those first 6–8 weeks can pay off.

Other potential side effects of tretinoin include:

Increased sensitivity (including sun sensitivity)
Dry skin
Redness